Motorcycle Winterizing - 10 Tips for Preparing Your Bike or ATV for Long Term Storage

By Marc Roden

One of the busiest times of the year for motorcycle and small engine repair shops is early spring. Why? Because people pull their bikes out of storage and the engine runs poorly or does not even start at all. By performing just a few simple tasks before extended storage, you can avoid all of the mechanical pitfalls of spring and have your bike running just as well as when you parked it. Believe it or not, storage maintenance is every bit as important as in-season maintenance. The following steps will make all of the difference when you are ready to ride again.

 1. Change the engine oil and oil filter. Change transmission fluids as well. Used oil contains contaminants and acids which are much better out of your bike during extended storage.
 
 2. Address anything that is broken or requiring repair. If there is an item requiring attention such as a broken or cracked part or a leaky fork seal, fix it now while it is fresh in your mind. If you do not have the time or inclination to fix these problems now, at least make a "to do" list and tie it to your handlebars so that nothing is forgotten for next season.
 
 3. Top up the coolant system. If your coolant is not in good condition or is a few years old, simply change with a mixture as recommended by your owner's manual. Avoid expensive freezing damage!

 4. Stabilize your fuel. This is very important! Stale fuel forms varnish and sludge deposits that clog injectors, fuel lines and carburetors. Often people wonder why their bike started fine when they put it away and come spring, it will not start. The answer is invariably stale fuel. The preventative process is simple, but be sure to start with fresh fuel.

 Stabilizer will not improve the performance characteristics of fuel that has already started to degrade. Simply add a good quality stabilizer to your fuel and be sure to run it for a few minutes to make sure that has circulated through your fuel system. Then top up your tank to remove any air pocket where condensation can form. It is also a good idea to add stabilizer to your fuel during riding season. During periods when you are not riding much, fuel can oxidize and degrade. The performance of today's fuels can degrade quite rapidly as it approaches thirty days in the tank or storage container. A small amount of stabilizer can maintain performance and keep your fuel system clean. Your local shop is going to be very busy next spring cleaning the carburetors of those who ignore this advice.

 5. Fog your carburetors and cylinders. Condensation can form inside your engine over winter. This can result in rust and corrosion forming on cylinder liners, piston rings and bearings. Long periods of storage can also dry out cylinder walls creating the risk of a "dry start". This common cause of engine damage can easily be avoided with the use of a fogging spray. First remove your air filter and start the engine. Then spray the fogging oil directly into the carburetor(s) until you see significant smoke coming out of the exhaust. Immediately shut down the engine. Then remove the spark plug(s) and spray more fogging oil into the cylinders. Before reinstalling the spark plugs, crank over the engine for a few seconds to properly coat the piston and cylinder walls. Reinstall the spark plug and air cleaner.
 
 6. Drain carburetor(s) if possible. Draining the fuel will eliminate the possibility of varnish and deposit build up. Turn off the fuel petcock.

 7. Lube all cables, pivots and the chain. Do not allow rust to form on anything.
 
 8. Preserve your bike's appearance. Wash the bike thoroughly and then polish or wax all painted and chrome surfaces. Apply a protectant or conditioner to all plastic, vinyl and leather components. Spray light penetrating oil on bare metal, black exhaust pipes and black painted engine surfaces.
 
 9. Inflate the tires to highest pressure suggested on the tire sidewall.
 
 10. Remove the battery and store it in a location where it will not freeze. Top up "maintenance-type" batteries with distilled water. Trickle charge the battery every 6 weeks or so at the required amp/hour rating.

 By performing these simple tasks, you can sleep well this winter knowing that your bike will be ready to go when you are next spring. Rather than waiting for repairs, you can be out riding.

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